Days 30 & 31 – Tsavo – Mombasa

One of the Many Scenic views in Tsavo West

Our Guide with Claudia, Sinead and Denise down one of the Narrow Alleys of Old Mombasa

People, Tuk Tuk's and Cars

Fort Jesus - Mombasa

Pavement Vegetable and Fruit Sellers in Old Mombasa

The Old Jail at Fort Jesus - No Denise is not in Jail

Day 30

We managed to get away from Kitani Banda’s by 07h30 and I have to say for Severin Group to be associated with these Banda’s is a disgrace, but the main camp was very nice as was the food and there they looked after us very well. It just showed us how much web site photos can be photo shopped.

I said how disappointed we were with the game viewing, in fact we saw more around our camp than out in the Park itself and I would not recommend this Park from a game perspective. The scenery on the other hand was superb and to our surprise on our last evening we saw Kilimanjaro being less than 50kms from the base and it brought back memories of our ascent in 2006.

Telephone Technicians Nightmare

We wanted to go down to Lake Jipe on our last full day there, however the map and the

 sign posts saw us  going down a road that eventually petered out forcing us to return the same way and other a couple of wildlife sightings we had a pretty barren day. We do not know how lucky we are to have a Kruger National Park.

Red Elephants of Tsavo

I n the morning of Day 30 we head for the Coast, but we have to traverse some 60 odd kms to get to our exit point at Tsavo Gate, again we see very little, but we did get a sighting of the Tsavo Red Elephants so named because they are generally covered in the red dust, which dominates Tsavo West. 

Kilimanjaro from Severin Lodge in Tsavo West not the well known Christmas Pudding Look

I cannot describe the driving in Kenya and I guess you have to live here to understand the unwritten rules of the road. There are so many trucks on the road from Mombasa and not surprising when one considers that it is the gateway to the inland of Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, Northern and Western Tanzania, the DRC and the Southern Sudan, why the importers and exporters do not use the Rail system I do not know.

The Nairobi to Mombasa road is in a good condition having been recently rehabilitated. Solid Yellow lines mean nothing along with blind rises and blind corners. It seems you just go and if another vehicle is coming head on, the truck or vehicle next to you allows you to squeeze in, it is really scary and then I finally click on to the correct behaviour my passengers have no nails to chew and their brakes have been on more than mine and there are holes in the floor boards. Driving in Africa is not for the faint hearted.

We take an hour to do the last 20kms along which it seems to be a constant truck stop, then we have to find our way through Mombasa just after their siesta time and it is chaotic and it is a mystery as to how we eventually ended up at Bamburi and the Kenya Bay Beach Hotel, our base for the next two days. The accommodation is good and we have a relaxing afternoon with Sinead enjoying the water in the kiddie’s pool.

If you want to avoid hawkers you do not go to the beach, there are more shops on the beach than on the main road. We go down the beach and pick out an Italian Restaurant (Roberto’s) for dinner, which turns out to be very good.

The next day we plan on going into Mombasa to see the outside curio market I remember from my days here in the 60’s and see some other sights.

Day 31

Today we bravely set off for Mombasa at around 08h30am. We realise that it is the rush hour, but we underestimated the effect that one bridge across the Mtwapa Creek has on the traffic, I am told that the old floating Nyali bridge was sold to Zambia and now they want it back due to the amount of North Coast traffic that needs to get to Mombasa Island and beyond, which is causing major traffic jams. There is nothing better to help you regain your ancient bearings than getting lost on a few occasions.

Have you ever been lost in Africa north of the Limpopo and asked for directions from the local populace, do not get me wrong they give you the right directions, but there is just too much information, a police woman gave us directions this morning that took 5 minutes and a bank teller gave me directions that took 30 seconds only when we got on the shortened narrative of the directions did we start seeing all her land marks.

Another tip never ask how far it is, you get the chin up in the air in the general direction and the words “mbale kidogo” meaning small distance and do not ask how many kilometres.

We arrive at Fort Jesus and have a conducted tour of this ancient Fort occupied over time by the Arabs, Portuguese and British, and it is very interesting. We then go through the “Old Mombasa Town” a labyrinth of narrow roads, 200 year old buildings, dark shops, pavement green groceries, a vegetable and fruit market and shops selling spices, teas and coffees. 

 In the main dirty, badly maintained and at times catches some very pungent smells not least was a garbage dump and I ask you does this sound familiar “the municipality only has capacity to upload 400tons of garbage a day and the greater Mombasa generates 7000 tons” at least that is what our guide told us and if you were to see the garbage everywhere it does lend credence to his claim. 

It has been a hot day with temperatures in the lower 30’s, but very humid and we are glad to find the Tamarind Restaurant which Denise and I have had some memorable meals, not least their famous Crab Claws deep fried in crumbs, Prawn Masala and Prawns Piri Piri a lunch fit for a King and a cold White Cap Pilsner that goes down without touching the sides. 

The Ladies at Tamarind Restaurant

View up Mtwapa Creek from the Restaurant

Back at our hotel where Sinead gets a well earned sleep and I do the blog before going for a long walk on the Beach, we say for exercise, but really it was to help digest our rich seafood lunch.

Tomorrow we start our journey home crossing back into Tanzania on the Mombasa to Tanga coastal road then on to Pangani and the Mkoma Bay Tented Camp also on the seaside.