Friday 9 August 2013

Day 22 – Robanda to Nyumbu Camp in the Masai Mara, Kenya

We arrange to have both a packed breakfast and a pack lunch as we want to get away by 06h00am and we once again achieve our objective and will be taking the most direct route that the Camp manager assures us is doable and will cut off 2 hours of travel time, with a border to tackle this will be a great bonus.

For the first 100kms we are travelling through come game conservancies on a fair road, then we start to pass through some villages before reaching the Mara Bridge, at a couple of the villages we have to reassure ourselves with members of the local community that we are on the right road, my Swahili is improving by the day and certainly assists in some of the remote areas.

The scenery is constantly changing and it starts to get greener at the higher altitudes near Tunduma. We pass a huge open cast gold mine owned by Barrick Gold near Tunduma called Mara Mine, which is the only sign of industry of any sort that have seen for at least 5 days.

The Tanzania side of the border is a breeze, but the Kenya side is a duplicate of the Botswana/Zambia debacle with everyone wanting to be your agent. I have to say thank goodness for the Carnet de Passage I got from the AA, but one should try and get the currency of the Country you are travelling to as the agents seemed to be the only ones with such currency and for some permits they want local currency and others US$. We eventually get through in about one and a half hours.

I am going by my map and we turn off towards Loligorian after some 30kms after consulting with a local who tells me the road is much better than the alternative, well heavens knows what the other road was like, because the one we took was from hell.

To cap it all a few kilometres down the road there is a road bock and they want KShs200 to pass (US$2.20) I ask them what is it for, they said the road, I say what road, they say it will be fixed in a few days (100kms). So on we go, Denise has the wheel and it is very slow going, in fact discounting stops and the border time we averaged that day 37kmph.

If we had not saved ourselves 2 hours by taking the direct route we would have arrived at our next destination in the dark and I can categorically state that we would not have found it. They have tried to rehabilitate the road down to the Talek Gate, but it is almost impossible to drive and people have taken to making their own roads and there are many of them off in all directions, depending on where you live, it is pretty flat and grazed to the ground by the Masai cattle and goats. The place we were staying had its name on a couple of rocks that you could easily miss if you were avoiding the so called main road. In fact I still do not know how we found it.

Denise got her off road - rocky, rutted, sandy, non existent road badge today in fact one particularly bad rocky section she asked me if I wanted to drive and I declined and she did a magnificent job.

We eventually arrive at Nyumbu Eco Camp where we will be staying for three nights in a tented camp, whilst we would not write home about the food it was edible and it is a nice camp and the people were great and nothing was too much for them. We still have not found anywhere that has powerful hot showers and comfortable beds, but hell it is Africa.


We immediately notice that Kenyan towns and villages are much more filthy than Tanzania, perhaps it is the population or the Kenyans being more affluent, the African flag flies high in Kenya (Plastic Bags). Tomorrow we visit the Masai Mara and are looking forward to seeing some of the Mara River crossing of Wildebeest and Zebra.        

No comments:

Post a Comment